Flew into Milwaukee yesterday and decided to just take it easy. My friend Mike Levin was already here attending his high school reunion , visiting the town he grew up in, Delvin, and visiting friends.
He arrived about 10 pm last night.
We each organized our gear.
The van picked us up at 9 am sharp. After picking up the other participants we drove to the starting point on the edge of Lake Michigan.
There are two guides and 9 participants.
All different abilities from someone who hadn’t been on a bike in decades to folks that have ridden hundreds of miles a day for multiple days in a row.
Shores of Lake Michigan heading north.
The riding was very enjoyable, being paved,separated from traffic with sun and cool breezes.
Kite festival with a whale and manta ray.
We had lunch in a park, that the guides had prepared and then continued riding to our hotel for the night in a picturesque town named Cedarberg
Hotel and front doorWater tower in Northern Milwaukee water towers serve multiple functions, provide water pressure, emergency water supply, help with navigation for local aircraft, and serve as landmarks
This is architecture!
Notice the texture and multiple planes of depth City HallNotice the address on this and our hotel
The buildings I sawseemed to use the latitude and longitude for their address If not it is a nice feature
My favorite building….
Well OF COURSE!What do you do with an alleyway?
Plant you fool!
The whole Main Street that I saw was populated with beautiful buildings
One of 5 or 6 churches in townHe too was talking to me but I couldn’t fit him in the handle bar bag
Yesterday was the last day of riding for this trip.
Started by leaving my rabbit camping companions
Was listening to to Van Morrison’s “Into The Mystic” ,while viewing scenes like this.
Roads were fairly quiet on this Sunday morning.
Came to the town of Neskowin. Town we had heard a lot about from our neighbors The Bugge’s. Pronounced boogie.
In Neskowin the is a great store next to the beach called Neskowin Provisions.
All kind of goodies there.
So I refueled and about a mile down the rod made a left onto the old highway 101.
The day before a guy I was riding with at the end of the day had told me about it.
The current 101 goes straight up and over the hill. This gem ,small two lanes wind its way through green forests,
Over creeks and streams
In an hour I saw 5 cars.
It was idyllic riding.
The climb was gentle and it almost felt effortless.
Yes near the top I was in my climbing gear, but the lack of traffic was so welcome. That’s the Frankenstein duo of the Oregon coast.heavy traffic with these stunning views.
I later in the day took a road that the same guy had suggested and it too was much quieter.
Its other side was that it was this series of 200 yard steep descents and climbs.
It was like doing intervals. There was a heroin high element to them.
If you built up speed going down you could climb up the next easily. the problem was often you couldn’t get as high, so you still ended up working to get to the top.
Of course that didn’t stop me from trying again!
One of the climbs took you off 101 onto a small road with a nice gradient.
It was one way and there were a few cars but they were going 25mph.
Heck this coast is so spectacular it even has Bonsai
To Marc and Jeanine,remember Dad and Mom’s trip here to golf?
Towards the end of the day and stopped to do some whale watching. The day before we had seen spouts in the ocean.
I saw one arching in this spot.
To my recollection everyone I’ve met on this trip has been generous and helpful.
I think of the the conductor who helped me get my bike on the train when I had no clue about bikes on trains,thetwo young scientists I met on the train ride up here, the people in Bellingham, who pointed me toward Blaine, the campground host on the last night, when I was so tired, who gave me the camp spot to the hotel manager here at Rodeway in Newport who helped me with my reservation mix up.
Contrary to what you see on tv there are wonderful people doing little things everyday to help one another.
Woke up to the sound of metal stakes being driven into the ground.
It was the fisher folks setting up their rod stands.
The King salmon are running up the Columbia. This particular couple were using a Kayak to take their bait out to the middle of the of the river where the salmon are running deep.
The day before this lady had caught a 25 lb salmon and her husband a twenty.
I was on the road in search of water and 12 miles later I found it.
Pretty weird to have a county park without potable water, but the campers were generous.
Took a short ferry ride.
The little ferry
Then was back on highway 30.Had one of the longer climbs of the trip.
The rest of the day until Astoria was up and down.
It would take 15 minutes to climb and 4 minutes to reach the bottom. Repeat!
Arrived in Astoria about 3 then a 12 Mile ride to Fort Stevens State Park.
Bouy The trusty steed in Astoria
A beautiful park and HUGE
500 camp site.
This is the Hiker Biker site
The structure to the left has lockers with electrical hook ups in each one.
Met a couple in camp who were here from Nashville.
They are hiking the Oregon costal trail for 30 days.
If not for the waves you might not know they are there.
You can see the lights of the tug pulling and another tug pushing a barge
Today was a long day due, to close to 7 hours riding.
When I arrived at the camp ground, the surprise was no potable water.
Of course I had finished my water,20 minutes earlier.
The closest water that I see is 12 miles away.Luckily I was able to get some water from several of my neighbors. That will get me through to the next town
For tonight I’ll fall asleep to the sound of waves lapping against the bank.
Then got rolling about 8 Am today. The roads were quiet with good shoulders. Seems like I was weaving amongst various lakes.There were a couple of steep climbs, that were Thankfully short.
As I was rolling along I heard someone calling. I looked down a saw this guy., who looked like he was having a tough go of it. So he got picked up and was given a bath, when we got to the hotel.
Probably going to need a name. Suggestions?
In case you’re wonderful what the ride looks like.
One yellow bag has sleeping equipment, The other has clothing.
One front has food and cooking equipment. The other has tools
Had an enjoyable evening,complete with hot shower.Visited with camp neighbors,who are native to Washington.
They shared good info about the area.
One of them is a cyclist, he told me of some alternative routes that are off the main roads. He said that it is beautiful and there are “some hills”.
I rolled out of camp went a quarter mile bam! My first hill of the day easily 15%.
For the first time I was standing on the pedals. My 200 yard long wake up call.
I wasn’t even out of the park.
It was a clarion call for the day.
Within an hour I was pushing the bike up the hills.
That said the views were worth every pedal stroke and step.
First picture was from two days ago, I just thought it was an iconic building.
Edison
Took the ferry to Port Townsend and the got on the Larry Scott Memorial Trail, hard crushed gravel with minimal foot and bike traffic.
Larry Scott Trail
.
The picture doesn’t reflect it , but it felt like I was riding through The Fushima Inari Tori gates in Kyoto.
You’ll have to look up that reference as I don’t know how to import it.
I’ll go out on a limb and call it mystical.
I still wasn’t sure where I was spending the night,hoping for a hotel.
Stopped at a diner for dinner, in Port Haddock. They had a couple of suggestions, that didn’t work out.
The reservation agency had some ideas, IF I wanted to spend $400.00, yes the decimal point is correct, a night.
So ok there is a camp ground s few miles ahead.
When I arrived at the turn off it was 6 miles out of the way, down hill.No thanks I’ll go to the next town, 10 miles further.
I arrive there to discover ,no camp ground there.
I look on the map,there is one 7 miles aheadIt’s now 6:15, I’m watching the Sun.
It hasn’t been flat since Port Haddock.
I proceed a mile or so,only to discover,I went in the wrong direction, so I back track
An example of a smaller hill.
Now I’m walking many of these hills, watching the sun., praying that cramps don’t decide to raise their ugly specters.
Of course there is one last hill to the camp ground and at 7 pm I gratefully pull into the camp ground.
I sent a garbled text to my wife.
Sunset from campCampground this morning, after sleeping 9.5 hours.
For all my whining, I can’t explain how grateful I am I am to be here.Two years ago this month,I was in London ,with a back that had gone out. I couldn’t walk 1/2 a block using a cane without stopping to catch my breath.
Marlina was infinitely patient, and working her backside off to help me, when she was suppose to be enjoying a vacation.
I am a very lucky man!
Speaking of which, I got up this am,went to the restroom in the park and it was locked, found another and on my way back to camp, I meet this Von who with his brother is camped next to me .
He and his brother are riding from Canada to Mexico.
We start talking a before you know it,we’ve blown through 30 minutes of conversation .
We say good by and hope to meet on the road.
Later that morning I run into Von and his brother Wendell in an underpass.
There goes another 20 minutes.
Meet Von and Wendell(sp?)
“Luke trust the force”
Tonight I’m in a hotel room and taking tomorrow off .
Started the morning on a road that was built on the side of a mountain at the edge of the bay.
Beautiful twisting,tree covered road with very little traffic.
After 7 miles it descends onto a flat marshy plain that is swallowed up when the tide comes in.
I had been promised an excellent bakery in the hamlet of Pow, but alas it is only open Thursday through Sunday.
So I had to ride a mile further to Edison where I found an excellent bakery,blueberry danish and croissant were the order of the day. The croissant made it to dinner.
The riding was flat for the morning,after my jaunt in the hills.
As I approached AnnacortesI rode over a mile long causeway over a tidal flat.
I kept noticing all these broken shells on the causeway.
Thought to myself, hmm, seagulls at work.?
Sure enough a few minutes later this seagull hovers drops an oyster shell it hits the causeway and shatters, “Oyster on a half shell my dear” in swoops the seagull for lunch.
So it was a shell cracker instead of nut cracker..
Had lunch in Annacortes at the recommendation of a couple I was talking with. very nice lunch, my main meal of the day.
I seemed to have developed a penchant for steep mile long climbs after lunch.
Had a feeling when I read the sign Mt Elias vista 1.4 miles ahead.
The rest of the afternoon continued in that vein.
If it is to be believed,my Ride GPS app aside my average grade for the day was 12%.
I am doubtful.
I ended up here in deception state park . As I’m checking in I hear the roar of fighter jet’s ,very close.
Turns out I’m right next to Widby Island Naval Base.